Chasing Mavericks

We all come from the sea,

but we are not all of the sea.

Those of us who are,

we children of the tides,

must return to it

again and again.

Four a thousand.

Five a thousand.

Six a thousand.

Seven a thousand.

Eight a thousand.

Nine a thousand.

One a thousand.

Two a thousand.

Three a thousand.

Four a thousand.

Five a thousand.

Six a thousand.

Seven a thousand.

Eight a thousand.

The ball! Go over there!

Pick it up, pick it up,

pick it up.

- Ten a thousand.

- Come on!

Eleven a thousand.

Come on, Jay, let's go!

We're gonna get wet.

Man, did you see that?

It's building!

That was the longest one yet.

One a thousand.

Two a thousand.

Oh.

Three a thousand.

Four a thousand.

Five...

Sophie, no!

Jay, no! Look out!

Jay!

Oh, yeah, you're

smiling now, big shot.

But if I hadn't

paddled around the Point

at that exact moment...

It's a miracle,

that's what it is.

And I don't believe in miracles.

How old are you?

What, six, seven?

Eight.

And three quarters, sir.

Well, you just used up your

entire allotment of dumb luck.

Here's a novel idea.

On your next little date,

why don't you go to the arcade?

Or pee-wee golfing.

Or something that doesn't

involve getting you killed.

Because he likes to time

the waves.

- Shh.

- What? You do.

What do you mean,

time the waves?

Um, to see if the swell

is building or dropping.

The more seconds between them

each wave in a set,

it means it's getting bigger.

Who taught you that?

Nobody, sir.

Just figured it out.

You just figured that out

on your own?

Okay.

Thanks. Bye.

- Bye. Okay.

- Bye.

Go straight inside, all right?

Close the door.

What now?

How big you reckon

that wave was, sir?

It's a small world, kid,

but how they gauge the size

of waves, well, that differs

from place to place,

so, hard to say.

So it might be bigger

somewhere else?

Look, it was definitely

big enough, okay?

Like I said, kid, small world.

I appreciate you

saving Sophie, Jay.

One of the bravest things

I've ever seen.

Mom?

Mom?

Hi, baby.

Unh. Sorry,

Mama's not feeling so good.

Don't worry,

Dad will change his mind.

There are hot dogs

in the fridge.

Hey.

Hey.

Need a hand?

Hey. What with,

the coffee or the cupboard?

Uh, you just missed

Roque again.

Just put her down.

Ahem. Yeah.

I had to help

a friend out after work.

Mm-hm.

I'll go in,

I'll give her a kiss.

Kiss would be nice.

Conversation every once

in a while, maybe nicer.

Time to wake up, Jay.

Okay.

How do I look?

You look awesome.

I have an interview at Sears.

So, I'm coming home at 12:00

and we are going

to get school supplies.

Good luck.

Thank you.

Excuse me. Ma'am?

Hi.

Your husband home?

Uh, well,

depends on who's asking.

I'm Jay Moriarty, ma'am.

He saved my life

down at Three Mile yesterday.

Oh, sweetie, I'm sorry,

I think you're mistaken

because Frosty was up in Scott's

Valley laying roof yesterday.

No, ma'am. He was surfing

the exact same time

I used up my allotment

of dumb luck.

Is that so?

Frosty is actually

down at The Point right now

but is there anything that I can

help you with, Jay Moriarty?

Well, I seem to be missing parts

on the bottom of my board.

Okay.

Fins, fins, fins.

- Where does he keep them? Oh.

- Wow.

They call that thing a gun.

It's for riding

the really big monsters.

Like that.

Where is that?

You should ask Frosty yourself.

Thanks.

Beat it, little trash.

Blondie, what are you doing?

Hey, man, you got to go in.

You're bleeding.

I can't.

Not until I get up.

Dude, believe me, nobody

gets up their first time.

Okay, okay.

I'm only doing this

because you're gonna start

attracting sharks

with all that blood.

When I say "now,"

you paddle as hard as you can

towards shore, you got it?

Now?

No.

Now?

No.

Now?

Yeah! Paddle, paddle, paddle.

Hey, paddle.

Paddle, paddle, paddle! Now!

Go, go, go!

Yeah!

You stealing a page out

of my playbook there?

Couldn't help myself, Blondie.

It's always been a keeper.

Hey, little trash.

Got a question for you.

Yeah.

What exactly are you

trying to compensate for

with this long board

of yours? Huh?

I was about to ask you

the same thing about that bat.

Y'all come back now, you hear?

Come on, let's go!

Okay, okay, we're coming.

Sometime today, please.

Hey, Kim.

Hi! How was it out there?

Good. Feels like

the swell is building.

Yeah? Did you time it?

Kimmy, come on, we got to go.

Um, all right, well,

maybe I'll see you out there.

Later. Whoo!

Let her be, dude.

She's too old for you.

Get out!

Get out of my house! Aah!

- Get down!

- Mom!

And you stay down there!

I'm tired of this!

- Get off me! Okay?

- Mom!

I'm not going anywhere!

Jay.

Easy, kid.

This is about back rent!

She tried grabbing me!

All I did...

He owes us money!

Get off me! Unh!

No!

Take it easy, kid!

Jay! No!

Jay! Jay, stop, stop! Jay!

Cops! Cops!

Just let him go! Come on!

Hey, hey! Break it up!

Break it up!

Get off me!

This is Victor-1-2.

We're on the scene.

Offshore

buoys are reporting seas

of 25 feet at 16 seconds.

Coming from the west

northwest at 295 degrees.

Northwest winds are forecasted

at 15 to 20 knots.

Swells are expected

to reach up to 28 feet

at 17 seconds near shore.

Morning, Frank.

Careful out there, son.

Hey, buddy.

What's up?

Next level out

there today, boys.

Twenty-five at 16.

Let's rock and roll.

Right.

Let's do it.

Yeah, Frosty!

Now, we'll agree to

forget how you got up here,

but as far as most

are concerned,

that wave's a myth.

Like the Loch Ness monster.

The four of us who surf there

want to keep it that way.

Is that clear?

Buoys reporting

swells of 28 feet

at 17 seconds coming from...

How big was that wave?

Did you hear what I just said?

Yes, sir.

Loch Ness monster.

How's it going over there?

Mom's not renting out

the back anymore.

Means I get my own room.

But I got to double-up

my shifts at Pleasure Pizza.

And your father?

He wrote me a letter

a few years back

from his base in Panama.

So what'd he say?

I don't know.

Never opened it.

All right, well,

I got to get out of here.

Got to get to work.

Hey, sir, I want

to ride that wave.

I want to take that drop.

Not gonna happen.

Why not?

Because untrained boys

don't step in the ring

with Mike Tyson, that's why.

I can handle it.

You don't just do it.

Buddy, I've been surfing

that break for 20 years.

You have any idea how much

strength and know-how you need

to survive a break like that?

Frosty, I'm getting

stronger by the day.

I'll hold my own.

Stronger by the day, huh?

Yeah.

Okay, give me your hand.

Now resist me.

Okay, that all you got?

Is that it? Is that it?

Ow. Ow, ow, ow.

Okay.

You ain't strong enough.

Right now, I'm surfing every

single day, right? So, if I...

Shut up, all right?

Now, I know how good you are.

I've seen you out there.

You surf circles around

those other kids.

But those are normal waves.

Surfing normal waves

is about how you perform

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