In God's Hands Page #3

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and they scratch their heads

they go

what's he tryin' to say

oh, but you

you speak my language

but you

you speak my language

yeah

yeah

[ brian ] there are

two types of surfers that

we have to be concerned with...

In surfing waves

that actually kill you.

One is gung ho.

This guy does not

consider the risk.

The other guy

is gun shy.

He does not want

to accept the risk.

In this cage right here,

gun shy and gung ho,

One focuses

on his abilities,

And the other focuses

on his limitation.

Pete, what is

the worst-case scenario

you can think of ?

The worst-case scenario

I can see, if someone goes

down on a big wave,

And gets held under

or maybe shoved into a cave.

When the rescue team

goes in to get him,

they can't find him.

[ brian ] rush, what is

the worst-case scenario

in this extreme surf ?

I think, if you let go

of the rope too soon,

And you fade to the bottom

of the pit with no speed...

And the wave just comes

from behind and takes you out.

Gobbles you up.

Shane.

I think the worst-case scenario

would be...

To get sucked over the falls

on a really, really big wave,

And lose all your air on impact

and get sucked down really far;

Like, 30 or 40 feet deep,

you know, and you're

getting darker and darker,

And all the clouds

surrounding you,

Like you're just about

ready to black out...

And it's really loud

and dark.

I think that would be a really--

like a really bad scenario.

[ shane ]

how long have you lived here ?

[ wyatt ] forever.

Came here for the surf.

Couldn't see leaving.

I travel.

But I always come back.

You a writer ?

- Yup.

- Got a wife ?

- Mm-hmm.

Kids ?

- Yeah, three.

Girls.

- They surf ?

Of course.

The navy's got these things

called "rebreathers."

Put it in your mouth,

and it pulls all the oxygen

right out of the water.

Won't be long till

we stay down indefinitely.

Rebreathers, my ass.

Guys sound like

a bunch of astronauts.

Here's the news:

You guys don't tow me in,

I'm gonna paddle in.

You don't think I know

what I'm doing ? I was

number two in the world.

Full on, mickey,

number two, man.

Full on !

That was eight years ago.

Eight long years, bro.

Eight years ?

[ all, chanting ] eight years,

eight years, eight years !

Eight years, eight years--

eight years, my ass !

[ others, chuckling ]

eight years !

[ brian ]

the other thing that

we have to also understand...

Is that we can augment

our own abilities...

Through the technology

that we have.

But technology

isn't everything; you need

the speed, the strength,

To handle those kind

of poundings.

You need to be as quick

and agile to fly,

And you need to be

as flexible as you can be

to reduce injury.

As we all know,

when we surf big waves,

You can be held under

for more than one wave.

You can be held under

for a two-wave hold down.

You could even be

held under for three waves.

We understand the risk that's

involved. We know exactly

what we're up against.

We know exactly

what our bodies

are able to do.

Practice

extreme safety...

When we're doing

extreme things.

[ wyatt ]

technology is taking surfing

into another dimension,

Allowing a rider to match

the speed of a 50-foot wave,

Traveling at 35 miles per hour.

But the question is,

at what price ?

Will only the most skilled

stand a chance to survive ?

To ride waves this big...

Is to put yourself...

In god's hands.

[ indistinct chattering ]

[ chanting in

indonesian dialect ]

What's the matter ?

You all right ?

[ groaning ]

- side pain.

Can't breathe.

What's up ?

All right, keoni.

What is it ?

Take a deep breath.

Breathe. Relax.

Relax.

Okay, let's walk him home.

Get him up.

[ groaning ]

[ mickey ]

he's burnin' up.

Maybe malaria.

I'll be fine.

Hey, no matter what,

no hospitals, okay ?

'cause I hate doctors.

One time, my mom...

Had this skin disease.

It got really infected,

and we had to take her

to the hospital.

Stupid doctor gave her

all the wrong things.

[ sighs ]

ruined her teeth.

Ruined her hair.

She made her look all old.

My dad freaked.

Drove his truck right through

the doc's living room.

[ chuckles ]

right through

the picture window.

You'll be okay.

You're strong.

Strongest man on earth.

[ shane ]

what is this place ?

[ wyatt ] my home.

[ wyatt ]

there's this rock concert

once a year.

We get invaded for three days,

and then they'll all disappear.

[ rock, indistinct ]

Daddy !

- Daddy !

Daddy !

Daddy, daddy !

Daddy !

- Daddy !

Hello, girls.

Hi, daddy.

Hi, daddy.

Hi !

Look how big you are.

Oh, god, I missed you.

Wyatt !

[ chanting in balinese ]

[ chanting continues ]

[ keoni's heart beating ]

It's not like I'm dyin'

or anything, man.

I just got a temperature

or somethin'.

Everybody's got

a weak spot.

[ wyatt ]

help me get him to my house.

Serena's with him.

Hope it's not malaria.

[ man on loudspeaker ]

welcome travelers.

Time to rock.

Just remember,

for the next 72 hours,

We are guests

in another people's land.

So listen up.

There's trash cans

and port-a-potties galore.

I need graphite too.

So spend wisely,

and if you choose to partake,

For heaven's sakes,

be discreet.

And above all,

if you hit pay dirt,

share thy bounty.

[ female vocalist,

indistinct ]

[ playful screaming,

squealing ]

[ audience hooting,

whistling ]

[ gasping ]

[ wyatt ]

this is for you,

and this is for you.

- How come you're not over

there with your friends ?

- Too many people.

I know what you mean.

I want

to show you something.

All over the world,

people are returning

to their tribes.

I don't blame them.

Probably don't realize it,

but you and your friends

are part of a tribe.

You think ?

- It's a tribe built

on mutual respect...

And a common understanding

of what it takes

to do what we do.

Never really

thought of it that way.

What do you think

about riding waves that are

too big to paddle into ?

Do they frighten you ?

- Yeah.

What about

using a jet ski

to help you get in ?

That's one way, yeah.

Mickey thinks

they can be paddled into.

He hates jet skis.

He thinks it takes

the purity away.

What do you think ?

I haven't really

made my mind up yet.

dream through

a warning sign

It's morning.

The night is over.

numb your senses

listless sleep of dreams

Hey. You okay ?

[ continues,

indistinct ]

Rough night, huh ?

The guys are out there trainin'.

I gotta get out there.

You'll be all right.

They'll take care of you.

Need anything ?

[ ends ]

Oh, man !

Come on, mickey. Focus.

Focus.

- I got it.

[ darrick ]

wait for the whip.

Perfect. Perfect !

[ darrick ]

faster ! Faster !

This is wrong !

I got it !

I got it !

[ wyatt ] as I watched

them train today, I was filled

with a certain sadness.

[ typewriter clatters ]

so many people aspire

to greatness; so few succeed.

I could see the separation

happening before my eyes.

- Good !

- The big waves of hawaii

would be waiting for them.

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