In God's Hands Page #4

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A challenge to one,

A threat to the other.

It's gonna get worse

before it gets better.

I wish there was more

i could do.

You could talk to me.

I like it

when you talk to me.

Did you see me

out there today ?

I heard

it was brutal.

That's my point

exactly.

Shane got it.

You'll get it.

Takes time.

You were number two

in the world, mickey.

Yeah. I was.

[ pete ]

just got word from hawaii.

There's a huge swell coming in.

Huge.

- We'd love to hang with you guys,

but I think it's time to go.

[ darrick ]

might only get one shot

at a swell this big.

Well, we gotta hang around,

wait for the kid to get better.

Only take a couple of days.

[ clicks tongue ]

see ya in hawaii.

All right.

We'll pick it up

where we left off.

- Right on.

Hopefully, we'll get there

in time for the swell.

All right.

[ all muttering good-byes ]

Hey, take care

of the kid, huh ?

Yeah, no problem.

[ groaning ]

He ain't comin' in,

you know.

I know.

[ mickey ]

he's been preparin' to surf

big waves all his life.

But he'd never

leave the kid

while he was sick.

He's got a strange way

of showing his feelings.

You'll get used

to it.

- Hm.

To all my friends,

good evening.

[ crowd shouting ]

[ woman ] brothers and sisters,

i can't tell you how blessed we

are to have you here tonight...

At this musical carnival

of ours.

And I want you

to give it up for skull.

[ crowd cheering ]

[ male emcee ]

all the way

from stockholm, sweden !

Whoo !

[ male vocalist,

indistinct ]

chaos

it's a one-way ticket

to chaos

and I'll be on

chaos

it's a one-way ticket

to chaos

chaos

I want to be just like you.

But I don't tell you that.

[ crowd shouting ]

You're strong.

Strongest man

on earth.

[ chanting in balinese ]

[ chanting continues ]

I said shut up !

[ screaming ]

[ screaming ]

[ screaming ]

[ man whispering,

indistinct ]

Shut up !

[ whispering continues ]

[ whispering ]

leave me alone, alone, alone--

[ hard rock ]

[ screaming ]

[ woman vocalizing ]

[ monkeys chattering ]

[ screaming, crying ]

Why you fightin' with me ?

Let me go.

[ crying ]

It's okay.

You'll be okay.

You'll be okay.

It's over.

[ shane ]

keoni's not getting any better.

[ female vocalist,

indistinct ]

- I'm gonna take him home.

Get him to a doctor.

blow you and I away

I knew when I came

with you it wouldn't

be forever.

My father's boat's

coming back through.

I miss him.

when the earth below

shakes us from

each other's arms

- shane--

It's been

a beautiful journey.

I'll never forget you

forget who you are

i love you.

I'll stay alive

with the warmth

of your breath inside

I'll watch you fly

wipe the tears

from my eyes

[ man on radio ]

hawaiian national sea

and weather forecast...

For local coastal waters

reporting small craft and

shipping lanes stage five alert.

Small craft warnings

anticipated by 1800 hours.

[ continues, indistinct ]

I'm ready.

Fever's gone.

Let's go !

My point exactly.

[ man on radio ]

small craft and shipping lanes

stage five alert.

Does serena know

what I did ?

With the fire and all ?

Yeah.

[ male vocalist,

indistinct ]

Was she mad ?

No, she wasn't mad.

I really liked her.

lap up the rain

released from

all my sin

I run

you'll stay

[ radio chatter ]

was all-night surfer red

when I held you

that night

They beat us here.

[ mickey ]

of course they did.

You leave first,

you get there first.

[ continues ]

who's that guy

in the baseball cap ?

That's the wizard.

Mike stewart--

The only guy

with guts enough to ride

this place on a body board.

He's been mappin' the reef

all summer.

[ ends ]

It'll be here

by morning.

How big ?

Big.

[ group ]

merry, merry, merry

a merry, merry christmas

to you

[ singing in hawaiian ]

No hard feelings,

but, uh...

We took a vote.

I'm not towing you in.

Yeah, well, I'll be there

just the same.

I'm not towing you in.

[ chuckles ]

Yeah, I know.

You voted.

- Merry christmas, darrick.

- Mele kalikimaka to you too.

[ slaps buttocks ]

Looks like the kid's

feeling better.

- Yeah.

[ off-key ] she gave me

her number and her eyes

were as big as the moon

soon I know I'm gonna be

in her arms tonight

hugging and kissing

[ dog barks ]

What's going on ?

[ barking continues ]

- Uuh !

- Jesus, mickey ! What the--

- Stay out of this !

- What the hell's

wrong with you ?

Shut up !

You've been told !

All right,

so you ride one of those

big sons of b*tches tomorrow.

Then what ?

What's it gonna prove ?

[ shane ] I've never

tried to prove anything

to anyone in my whole life.

[ mickey ] get out on the

pro tour and make some money !

Show people how good you are !

Calm down.

- Shut up !

You lose that step, man,

and it's gone.

[ snapping fingers ]

And it ain't comin' back.

You're gonna burn out.

People burn out.

[ cricket chirping ]

I'm paddling into

one of those bombs tomorrow.

I know you are.

I hate the stink

of those goddamn jet skis.

I know you do.

You think I'm nuts,

don't you ?

It can be done,

you know.

I know it can.

You just gotta catch it right.

You ever gonna tell me

what's on your mind ?

You ever gonna tell anybody

what's on your mind ?

Jesus.

I'm treatin' you

like a chick.

Line up with the palm tree

on the cliff.

Sit deep.

The wind comin' up the face

is gonna be like

nothing you ever felt.

This wave's an animal.

[ stewart ]

imagine 50 to 60

olympic-size swimming pools...

Converging all at once

on this reef shelf here.

It's about 30 feet deep

when it initially breaks...

And then it shallows out

to about 15 feet.

So there's a lot of intensity

and force coming in all at once.

[ male vocalist,

indistinct ]

get off of my porch

You're up first.

You're gonna run with it

a while outside.

I got the power.

Forty, fifty miles an hour.

I know it's gonna seem

like a long time, but wait--

wait for the whip.

Hey.

Where's mickey ?

Don't worry.

He'll be here.

I'm gonna get my pistol

and call out the dogs

I'm gonna get my razor

and feed you

to the hogs

[ stewart ]

the wave generally comes in

at a northwest direction,

Maybe 350 degrees

on the compass.

The waves surge

over the shelf

towards the beach.

So if you can make it

past the initial intensity

of that impact,

The rest of this current

should take you

over to the channel.

But you're gonna have

to hold your breath for

a good 80 yards underwater.

So we're gonna be

in the mach ten express ?

Mach ten express.

[ continues,

indistinct ]

If the guy wipes out on the

inside corner and gets dragged

underwater to the inside,

He's gonna get spit out

along the shoreline here...

Because the current comes in

parallel with the beach.

So watch here if you do get

caught in that inside section...

Because it can wash you

onto the rocks.

[ continues,

indistinct ]

I'm not goin' down

so easy

[ man on radio ]

what's mickey doing out here ?

How'd he get out here ?

Okay, guys.

You gotta make sure

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