Beyond the Summit Page #2
- Year:
- 2000
- 71 min
- 32 Views
I knew Scott Fischer a little...
He was one of the toughest
mountaineers I ever knew...
When you think he and Rob Hall
could die on Everest,
it means that anybody
could die on Everest...
It reminds us of our mortality
and reminds us that we have to know
when it's time to turn back,
and try and always make
Not go beyond our capabilities...
Everest is worth climbing, but not
worth dying for, that's for sure...
There is a young Sherpa boy...
He was on another team...
There was only three teams
in 95 on the mountain...
And we were going on up to Camp 3 and
we were at the bottom of the Lhotse Face
and he was getting nearer to the camp
and he didn't clip into the fixed line...
And he fell, and we watched him fall,
all the way down the mountain...
Leaving a trail of blood...
By the time he hit the bottom of
the mountain he was already dead...
And it was the first time we had seen
anyone die on the mountain...
how dangerous that Lhotse Face is...
I always just come up here
and just spend a minute...
There's too many up here... too many...
While certainly no 5 star hotel
and after 10 days on the trail,
Base Camp is a virtual Shangri- La.
Home sweet Home...
Located on the Northwestern edge
of the Khumbu Glacier
shoulder of Everest,
this piece of communal real estate
is free of avalanches,
rock- slides and falling ice seracs...
Apa. I'm save arrived...
Sun's out it's a gorgeous day...
Be a hell of a lot better
if you didn't show up.
I was having a good time...
I hope my bags unpacked you
son of a b*tch...
We told them to take it back down
the Khumbu...
Too much weight
trying to get all your stuff in...
I was expecting to have my tent up
by now...
I don't see my tent...
Uh, Bob, where's my tent?
Each climbing season,
Base Camp must be built from scratch.
The only materials used are
the rocks and boulders
that are churned out by
the ever-shifting glacial moraine...
While comparatively safe,
life on the lateral moraine of
a glacier does have its challenges,
It's hard, it's cold and it moves.
A 5 foot per day glacial flow slowly
agitates years of biological waste
deposited at the upper camps.
A continual contamination of ground
water is a constant health hazard
for the people living at Base Camp
during the climbing seasons.
The human waste problem at Base Camp
is hard to distinguish from the
animal waste problem at Base Camp.
What we've found so far is that
the water supplies in some places
are showing moderate contamination
with fecal coliform.
And fecal coliform is an indication
of contamination by biological waste.
Whether it's by humans or yaks,
we don't know, we can't tell that here.
But what we are finding is that
some areas that people use for water
sources are actually contaminated,
and that makes us, obviously,
change our water sources,
be more careful with the water
that we're drinking.
And, uh, trying to make sure that
any human waste that's generated here
is definitely contained and treated
so that we're not contributing to
that problem...
At this elevation
the amount of oxygen in the air
is half of what it is at sea level,
cleaning-up more difficult.
The Sherpas live at elevation
some as high as 14,000 feet,
to physically accomplish
what many people from sea level cannot.
We've hired an additional
to concentrate on the clean-up effort.
Our plan for camp 2,
once we get it established
is to have the Sherpas clean up
as much of the exposed garbage
as possible.
So far reports from the teams
who have gotten in there
have indicated that we have a very
high snow and ice level up there.
It's going make finding this garbage
and removing it a very difficult task.
The Sherpas will then continue up
to camp 4
to remove some of the hundreds of
oxygen bottles
that are still up there as well as
Before proceeding beyond Base Camp,
each expedition conducts
a puja ceremony.
The puja asks the spirits
for understanding
and tolerance of Human activities...
Asks for luck, health, fair weather,
and permission to climb the mountain...
The puja is conducted by
a monk or Lama.
and is part of the Base Camp set-up.
This is the heart of the worship site
or Lhap- so...
The climbing gear
is laid near the fire.
This is so the smoke
from the burning juniper branches
may purify the crampons,
ice axes and ropes so vital
for the days ahead...
On the morning of the puja,
Sherpas and the westerners alike
bring the sacramental offerings
to the lap-so...
Rice, incense, & beer,
are traditional gifts to the spirits.
Near the end of the day-long ceremony,
and with prayer flags in place,
the center pole is raised to embrace
the camp with good luck.
Finally everyone chants together
while holding handfuls of flour...
"Go up, may good fortune arise."
hang which is a rice beer, is shared by all members
of the expedition
as a way of closing the ceremony.
Tomorrow the team will venture into
the Khumbu Icefall and begin a week-
long acclimatization
at the higher camps.
Avalanches, falling ice seracs
the size of houses,
and aluminum ladders precariously
balanced over crevasses-
are all hazards in
More climbers have perished
in the Khumbu icefall
than on any other part
of the mountain...
Even the summit.
Human beings do not perform well
at this elevation
due to the lack of oxygen.
An acclimatization-process
is necessary
to adapt the body to the thin air
of this new environment.
Time spent at the higher camps
enable red blood cells
to multiply which in turn will carry
more oxygen.
The climbing team continue
their acclimatization
while the Sherpas push up to Camp 4
to begin the cleanup operation.
Although the Khumbu icefall is regarded
as the most dangerous leg of the climb,
the Lhotse face is no casual walk
in the park.
It is a 4000 foot near-vertical
wall of ice.
Like the icefall,
multiple trips up and down
only increase the danger
for anyone traveling...
Because the wind-blown South Col is accessible,
we wanted to go up there and clean off
the hundreds of oxygen bottles
that have been left... and mainly,
these are the large, heavy ones
that no one wanted to bring down
in the past.
Some of them weigh up to
In Nepal, the average annual income
is five hundred U.S. dollars per year.
At twenty-five dollars
per oxygen bottle,
this man will make his income
Down the hill he will walk
with 5 empty Bottles in his pack...
worth $125 U.S. dollars.
Ask any Sherpa why he climbs,
and the answer is nearly always the same:
do not have climb tomorrow."
But how did the garbage come
to be here in the first place?
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