National Geographic: Glories Of Angkor Page #3
- Year:
- 2001
- 101 Views
inscriptions
on many of the, many of the
monuments -
they were mostly in Sanskrit and
old Khmere.
He could tell by these inscriptions,
even though he couldn't read them,
that these were a very learned
people
who had built all this and yet they
were gone without a trace.
How many centuries and
thousands of generations
have passed away, of which history
will never tell us anything.
What treasures of art will remain
forever buried beneath these ruins.
How many distinguished artists,
kings, and warriors are
now forgotten.
Mouhot was deeply frustrated
by the mystery of who had
created the city of Angkor.
He noted the similarity
between the faces in the carvings
and the people living in the
surrounding forests.
But he couldn't bring
himself to believe
that these Cambodians were descended
from Angkor's peerless artists.
In fact, the artistry of Cambodia
had never died.
Though it never again reached the
heights of Angkor,
Khmere art flourished throughout
Southeast Asia.
Demand for replicas if its most
famous works
grows with Angkor's fame.
Oblivious of Cambodia's past,
Mouhot saw France in its future.
Only a full scale takeover,
he concluded, could correct the
nation's 'deplorable' condition.
The sooner the better.
European conquest wise and
protecting laws, and experience
would alone effect the
regeneration of this state.
I wish France to possess this land,
which would add a magnificent
jewel to her crown!
Though Mouhot wouldn't live to
see it,
France did intervene soon after
his expedition,
making Cambodia a protectorate
in 1864.
It would last nearly a century.
Mouhot's diary wasn't the cause.
But like explorer's tales before,
it fueled interest and imitation.
King Mongkut's tutor,
Anna Leonowens, was so moved
by Mouhot's description of Angkor
she'd later copy it for her own
book.
Angkor was never a lost city
in Asians' eyes.
They knew about it and from
the 16th century onwards,
their diaries.
It's just that their diaries
were so confidential
it didn't reach a wide public.
Mouhot was the first person to
popularize Angkor.
And it was his sketches, his
descriptions
that really is why he was credited
with the discovery of Angkor.
With a saber in one hand, Phrai
pursues the fishes in the stream.
He and his shadow reflected on
the rocks and water
might easily be mistaken by the
natives for demons.
It is pleasant to the man devoted to
our good and beautiful mother Nature
to think that his work, his fatigues,
his troubles and dangers, are
useful to others.
I doubt not others will follow in
my steps,
and gather an abundant harvest
where I have
but cleared the ground.
Mouhot had been traveling for the
better part of three years.
The amateur enthusiast had
become an expert naturalist,
a skilled outdoorsman, a hardened
explorer.
He treated Phrai and his other
servants as his family,
whom he alternately nursed and
scolded,
and with whom he shed tears at
parting.
Yet even as his letters home turned
wistful and sentimental,
and his journey stretched from two
years to three,
he couldn't seem to turn back.
Only on the trail was he at peace.
Do not be anxious when you think
of your poor friend the traveler,
for you know that up to the
present time
everything has prospered with him.
And truly I experience a degree of
contentment, strength of soul,
and internal peace, which I have
never known before.
But the French priest's dire
warning finally came true.
The weather and mosquitoes were
the worst yet.
First Phrai fell sick.
For five days we were compelled
to remain in the forest;
it rained a great part of the day,
the torrents overflowed.
I never in my life passed such
wretched nights.
My poor Phrai was seized with a
dreadful fever,
and I myself felt very ill.
October 29, 1861.
Overcome by fever
the 35 year old Mouhot scratched
out his last journal entry.
Have pity on me, oh my God!
Phrai recovered and made sure his
master received a proper burial.
Then he brought Mouhot's
possessions out of the forest,
and put them on boats for Europe.
Most of the zoological samples
the naturalist had collected during
his journeys
had already been lost at sea.
But his journal made it safely back
to England.
Henri's widow Anna persuaded the
Royal Geographical Society
to publish Mouhot's diary.
The first edition did not sell;
there were no profits to share
with Anna.
description of Angkor,
Mouhot's work remained in print
for a full century.
Generations of travelers and
explorers have encountered
the treasures of Khmere culture
with Mouhot's journal in hand.
And perhaps some took heart in
one of Henri's last letters home,
a fitting epitaph for Mouhot, and
his generation of explorers:
Courage, then, and hope!
Our perseverance and efforts will
be recompensed.
Adieu, adieu, Au revoir.
Do not forget me.
Shortly after Henri Mouhot alerted
the world to the wonders of Angkor,
the work of recovering its treasures
began.
Mouhot's meticulous descriptions
had inspired Europe to take
a closer look.
But the questions had only just
begun.
Who were Angkor's builders, the
empire called the Khmere?
Archeologists had no written record
to go on
- If the Khmere had chronicled
their story,
they probably did so on palm leaves
and paper.
Time had turned the perishable history
to dust.
With nothing known about their
builders,
Angkor's monuments seemed destined
to hold their tongues forever.
Then in 1902 a remarkable document
came to light
and a most unlikely voice
reverberated across eight centuries.
The fantastic civilization of the
Khmere,
thought to be forever beyond reach,
came to life in all its grandeur.
In about 10,000 words
this report captured the heart of the
lost kingdom of Angkor.
Its author was a diplomat sent to
Cambodia
by China's fearsome Mongol Dynasty.
their deadly mounted warriors,
and for tactics that routed European
armies.
At the end of the 13th century,
however, they took aim at Southeast
Asia.
In 1286 the Mongols struck deep into
what's now Vietnam.
A year later the capital of Burma
fell to the hordes.
Yet the infamous horsemen didn't
like fighting
- perhaps this alone saved Angkor
from being next.
Khan gave orders for diplomats
to go to Angkor and collect tribute
from the Cambodian king.
This would appease the Khan while
allowing the envoys
to size up Angkor for possible
future attack.
Zhou Dagoun.
Zhou Dagoun in his writing, never
said why he was there.
He was part of an embassy
which obviously meant that it was
some, trying to check out on trade,
check out, get the intelligence on
what this kingdom was like.
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