The Perfect Wave Page #2

It's about now.

You know, get busy living

or get busy dying.

I just want what's best for you,

son.

When I get back,

I'll get the whole package,

okay?

House, car, wife...

Maybe even a dog.

Yeah.

I guess this is it.

- Hey, Uncle Colin.

- Greg.

- Stay out of trouble, you hear me?

- Yeah, I'll try.

- Don't worry, pops.

- Safe travels, son.

Don't let him drag you

into anything.

If he thinks it's a good idea,

don't do it.

Wait!

One more hug!

Okay, one more hug.

- You got my suit, right?

- Yeah, I got it.

It's in the trunk.

Mom.

Don't worry, mom.

I love you, Ian.

You have a good time

and take care of each other.

Listen...

Whatever happens out there,

God's watching over you.

- Yes, right. God's watching.

- I'm serious.

I love you, mom.

Ian, you need anything

or you get into any trouble,

you call, okay?

Okay.

Thank you, dad.

Oh.

Well, I'll see you when I see

you.

Baby bro, don't do anything

I wouldn't do.

Which means you can do anything.

Sidney, here we come!

Whoo-hoo!

Leaving home,

my mom had a premonition something

might happen to me on this trip.

And my dad, well,

he just wants me

to get ahead in life.

And me?

Well, I just wanna get out there

and discover freedom.

In June, July, and August

Drinking white wine

by the reservoir

In just three months

I'd known ya

By then I could've told ya

who you are...

'Cause all of ya

all year round...

What do you think

you're doing, mate?

Just dropping

into my wave like that?

So what happened out there?

I got into it with this local.

And this guy,

who I didn't even know,

paddled up and diffused

the whole thing.

- Jeez.

- Hang on.

Hey, ladies.

- Hi.

- How's it going, guys?

- Good.

- You're... you're not from here, eh?

Nah. Well, we live in new Zealand,

but we're from Cali.

- You guys look pretty good out there.

- Thanks.

There's a Hawaiian beach party

tonight if you wanna join us.

- Sounds good.

- Okay.

- So we'll see you later?

- Yeah. Where's it at?

The big house at the bottom.

- Down the beach?

- Yeah.

- Cool.

- See you later.

See you ladies there.

Hey, how are you?

- Oh, how's it going, mate?

- Hey, there.

- Hey.

- Hey! You found it.

Yeah.

- Hey.

- Hey, how's it going?

Yep. You made it.

You wanna go?

There's that young guy

I saw in the lineup today.

Wanted to fight half the locals.

That was you out there today.

Thank you for stepping in.

- Ian.

- Ian, I'm Lachlan. No problem.

Those guys are donkeys.

They think aloha's

a sign of weakness, you know?

Yeah, aloha's a rare thing

these days, man.

- Sure is.

- You're not from here, huh?

No, we're all just

traveling through, you know?

Oh, sorry.

Um, Ian.

Hi, Ian.

Nice to meet you.

- I'll get us another round.

- Cheers, love.

So what's your vibe?

Surfer on a surf trip.

I gathered that.

Where you headed?

- Bali.

- Indonesia, huh?

Gonna hit Padang Padang?

Ulus, the hole, green bush,

what?

Yeah, I'm pretty much

on a dream surf trip.

I just left home and...

I'm doing it, the whole

"endless summer" thing.

We wanna hit all the spots,

you know?

So it's indo and then Africa.

Africa.

Africa's where

you can lose yourself.

Hit the standard...

j-bay, cape town,

then get up north a little bit.

Some outer islands

with some outer reefs.

Just fire still waiting

to be discovered, you know?

- Really?

- I'm headed there next, so hit me up.

- Okay. Thank you.

- Good meeting you, bro.

- Cheers.

- Cheers, love.

Time to paddle out and chill.

Everyone's towing.

No, 'cause it's a complete lie.

Africa's where you can lose yourself.

With some outer reefs that

fire...

Still waiting to be discovered.

Hit me up on the road.

My dad used to say,

"waves are not measured

in increments of feet,

they're measured

in increments of fear.

With the power to destroy us

as much as thrill us,

they give a natural, addictive

high.

Something to measure

ourselves against."

I'm headed out

into the great unknown.

New beginnings, new adventures.

It's like paddling out to a

new break for the first time,

never knowing what to expect.

When the clock turns 12:00

They say that things change

A new day, a fresh start

One more beginning...

"Ian, live the dream.

It's out there.

Lachlan."

Mac.

- Hey, bud.

- We've been looking for you, man.

Dude, that party last night

was sick.

It was fun.

Where's that chick

you were with?

I don't know.

You got that look

in your eye again.

I think it's time we leave, man.

I had a great time here,

but it's time.

- Where?

- Stick to the plan. Go to Bali next.

Why does this always

have to be about you?

Greg doesn't understand.

I can't quite put

my finger on it, but...

It's not the parties or the

girls.

The chase is something...

something that's more real than

this.

And I only feel it on a wave.

And when it's over...

I'm just left wanting more.

- Thanks again.

- Cheers, fellas.

Good luck with them waves.

Well, this is it.

- Nice waves, huh?

- Yeah.

Bye.

Didn't even understand that guy.

Okay.

I didn't think he was gonna

drop us off here.

I guess we'd better

start walking, then.

Seriously?

You got a better idea?

Come on, bud.

Not far now.

Hey, come on, buddy.

Hurry up.

Dude, I'm such an idiot.

I can't believe

I followed you out here.

Dude, what was wrong

with Sidney?

I mean, the waves were cranking,

we had chicks, we were hooking up,

the parties were amazing.

We were over it, remember?

We wanted to leave.

Dude, maybe you were over it.

I wasn't.

Bro, this is all part of the

journey.

Just... let's just make

the best of it, okay?

So why you always

telling me what to do?

Dude, I'm not.

You're acting like a child right now.

- Dude, listen.

- What?

I'm so sick of this, man.

I don't know why we're out here,

why we couldn't have

just flown there...

damn!

See, my friend?

Ye of little faith.

What are the chances, dude?

I don't know, man.

That's gotta be a billion to one.

What are two white boys like you

doing out in this mighty desert, eh?

Trying to get to Darwin.

Darwin, yeah?

For what?

- Surfing.

- Surfing?

- Hmm?

- Yeah, you know...

No, I don't know. What is surfing?

Maybe you better show me.

- Why don't you show her, Mac?

- Yeah, why don't you show me, Mac?

Um...

You know... surfing.

Show me!

You lay down, then you paddle.

- Paddle, eh?

- Yeah.

Go ahead, paddle.

Show her.

- And then you... you stand up.

- Get up.

And then you, uh...

Ride the wave.

Go ahead, ride that wave.

- Ride the wave.

- Come on, ride the wave.

- Ride the wave.

- You know, like this.

Ha ha! I don't know if you're

any good at this surfing.

Ugh. Well, you guys better hurry up.

I haven't got all day.

You jackass.

Good luck with

this little space I saved you.

Oh, easy, bud.

Come on!

There we go!

The desert has its lessons, too.

Not ones I care to learn.

Bush fires and flash floods

and solitude

and the dryness and heat

scratching out a life.

It's empty in its vastness.

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