Treasure Seekers: Code of the Maya Kings
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Code of Maya Kings
They would tantalize explorers
for hundreds of years,
ruined cities lost in the jungles
of Central America and Mexico.
Inscrutable faces etched in stone.
Mysterious writing.
Who had left these messages
from the past?
It would take more than a century to
unlock the secrets of the ancient Maya.
Two extraordinary people
would lead the way.
Separated by 100 years,
they would unveil one of the greatest
mysteries of archeology.
Code of Maya Kings
Chichen Itza, Mexico 1842.
John Lloyd Stephens
wanders the empty ruins
looking for clues.
He knows what he wants to find.
It has kept him going
through two harrowing journeys,
exploring the desolate jungles
of Central America.
Kept him pushing on
through mud and malaria,
poisonous snakes, and insect-plagued
nights under the stars.
Stephens, the lawyer,
was looking for proof,
undeniable evidence that these ruins
were not built by the Egyptians
or the Phoenicians or the Lost Tribes
of Israel.
And here at Chichen Itza he thinks
that he's found it at least.
Writing unlike that of
any other civilization he knows.
The same writing he'd seen at other
ruined cities hundreds of miles away.
Proof of an ancient empire
of Native Americans
more sophisticated than anyone
believed possible.
Stephens himself was a product of
the New World.
He was born in 1805, the son of
a wealthy New York merchant.
The city wasn't much more than
a Dutch village,
but it was the hub of a new nation.
Stephens grew up
along the Hudson River
watching the ships come in
from around the world.
After reading law,
he opened a practice on Wall Street.
Soon he got into politics,
campaigning vigorously for
Andrew Jackson for President.
But months of shouting to the crowds
gave him a serious throat infection.
His doctor prescribed a common remedy
a grand tour of Europe.
The ancient ruins of Italy and Greece
only piqued his curiosity.
Stephens went on to Egypt,
floating up the Nile,
visiting the temples and monuments
along the way.
Only a decade before a Frenchman
had deciphered the hieroglyphs,
revealing the rich history
of Egypt's kings and queens.
Stephens was fascinated,
and he still wasn't ready to go home.
He'd seen pictures of
a fantastic ancient city in Arabia,
lost for century to all
but the Bedouins.
Everyone told him the journey was too
perilous for an unaccompanied American,
as a Turkish merchant
and took the name Abul Hassis.
In 1836, John Lloyd Stephens
was the first American to set eyes
on the ruins of Petra.
In Roman times it had been one of
the greatest cities of the East.
Stephens still found it dazzling:
"A temple delicate and limpid,
carved like a cameo
the first view
of that superb facade
must produce an effect
which will never pass away."
Stephens letters home
were so vivid and imaginative,
they were published
in a monthly magazine.
Soon, he was writing books recounting
his exotic adventures around the world.
The lawyer had become
a literary sensation.
He was a seasoned observer,
he was an incredible observer.
In fact, Herman Melville
of Moby Dick fame, recalled one time
when he was in church,
Herman Melville was, he was a kid.
He heard that Stephens
was in the front row.
And when Stephens left,
Melville writes,
"I thought this man must have great
huge eyes that bulged through his head,
he was such a good observer,"
because Melville had read his stuff.
Back in New York the life
of a sedentary lawyer
no longer held any charm for Stephens.
Instead, his mind was filled with
thoughts of another journey,
not so far away, but even more
remote and daring.
On his way home through London,
he met an artist named
Rederick Catherwood
who'd spent ten
years in the Near East.
in exotic travel.
Sensing a kindred spirit, Catherwood
about a lost city in Central America
hidden in the jungle.
The book's authors thought
the fabulous ruins of Palenque
had been built by Egyptians,
Carthaginians, maybe even
the Lost Tribes of Israel.
Anyone but the Native Americans.
There was sort of a racism in here
that said that
everything great had come
through the Greeks, the Egyptians,
through the European tradition.
And anything different
appeared relatively
to be a bunch of naked savages
wandering through the woods.
In 1839, no one believed
the Native Americans
capable of building
a sophisticated civilization.
Stephens' own government
had little use for them.
Only a year earlier
they had uprooted thousands of Indians,
sending them westward
along the infamous Trail of Tears.
The thought of a great ancient
civilization in Central America
seemed even more preposterous.
A few travelers had reported
sighting ruined cities like Palenque,
none of them on the map.
It was a travel writer's dream,
but only this time
evidence of whatever he found.
But who better to accompany him
than the artist Frederick Catherwood,
now practicing architecture
in New York?
Only one small problem remained,
the newly formed
Central American Federation
was fighting a bitter civil war.
Using his political connections,
Stephens secured a post
as a Confidential Agent.
He figured his diplomatic coat would
protect him in dangerous territory.
So in October 1839,
Catherwood bid farewell to
his wife and two young boys,
and now they were here,
deep in the jungles of Central America.
their first goals.
But when they found
the little village of the same name,
no one there had ever head
of nearby ruins.
Finally, a knowledgeable Indian
offered to guide them.
But that was hours ago.
Now they were beginning to think that
the ruins were nothing but a legend.
When suddenly, there they were,
grander than their wildest dreams,
the Ruins of Copan.
Pyramids rose majestically
out of the jungle.
Great stone faces peered at them
from intricately carved monuments,
twice the size of a man.
Stephens noticed hieroglyphs
and judged them
to be as fine
as any he'd seen in Egypt,
yet his experience told him
that these carvings were unique.
The silence of the once
majestic city overwhelmed him:
Copan lay before us like a shattered
bark in the midst of the ocean,
her masts gone, her crew perished,
and none to tell whence she came.
I think the description of Copan
is the single most poetic description
of a place he visits,
for it is though he is walking
around inside the Titanic,
and he's looking at the shipwreck
of a civilization.
He walks from monument to monument.
It is through he's looking into
the faces of those
who have recently been
ruling this place:
America, say historians,
was peopled by savages.
these structures,
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