Chasing Mavericks Page #3

you got to eat like one.

Take this.

Go on, take it.

You're gonna need it

more than me.

Thanks.

Winds out

of the south, southeast

at 15 knots,

gusting to 20 knots.

That's the Weather Radio, huh?

You use it to follow big surf?

Kind of like you

timing the waves.

Only this thing's

a little more accurate.

There's no way

to paddle out there,

especially with long boards.

Oh, there's a way, all right.

So let's see if you're

worth your salt, chief.

Okay, back to baking.

Let's go.

So you made it all of 30 yards.

If you want to get out there,

you got to make it

through more than half

a mile of this

just to get in position

of Mavericks.

So you've got to conserve

all the energy you've got.

All right.

Now let's take a look

at what you missed.

Now, for some reason,

you decided

to paddle straight out

into that mess.

Now, take a look

at the rocks over there.

See what's happening

with the current?

It's got nowhere to go.

Nowhere to go but where?

Back out?

Exactly, back out.

To a waterman,

it's a conveyor belt.

Watch this.

So today's lesson

was about the power

of observation.

Simple fact

is you got two choices.

You can fight things head-on

or you can observe

the laws of nature.

Because if you

look hard enough,

there's always

a way through it.

Make sense?

Yes, sir.

Good man.

Because you're going to

write me an essay about it.

Three pages,

typewritten, single-space.

Devil's in the details

of whatever you observe.

Time to start building

your mental pillar, chief.

Hey, Kimmy.

Oh, my gosh!

Are you okay?

Yeah.

Oh, man.

What are you doing?

Uh, I just

got off work. You?

Oh, um, I was just trying

to go for a swim,

but I guess they close

early on Sundays.

You want to go swimming

at night,

you got to use

the back entrance.

Hey, this isn't so bad.

Okay, so how do we get down?

There's only one way I know of.

What? No. Are you serious?

No. Jay!

Hey.

I saw your bike.

You didn't tell me.

So she know the rules?

No.

Clear it. Clear it.

Excuse me.

It's kind of like

figure skating.

Points based on a combination

of style,

execution and difficulty.

For example, I'm going to start

with a standing one and a half.

High, I repeat,

high level of difficulty.

Because I got to clear

the pool deck.

Hit that,

you're immediately DQ'd.

No. Wait, wait, wait.

You guys aren't serious.

Really? No!

Oh...

Oh!

And the judges say...

- Oh, my gosh.

- Nice one, Blondie.

The only thing that can top

that is a reverse back tuck.

Because of the blind entry.

No! I can't watch this.

You have to.

You're the only judge.

No, Jay!

Whoo!

Look at this! Yeah!

And the judge turned competitor

ties it with Moriarty.

- No.

- No, no, no!

To see who the real

champion will be

we're down

to a final sprint. Whoo!

Ooh!

Hey, you cheater!

Ooh.

You are disqualified.

Why?

Because you pulled my ankle!

I would have won that!

Whatever.

Forty.

What are you doing?

Four pillars

of a solid human foundation.

Fifty.

Mm-hm.

I made coffee,

your clothes are in the dryer.

I'm swallowing water.

Well, you better grow gills.

You got two more minutes.

Yo, dude!

Three pages.

Congratulations.

You eaten?

It's good.

Oh. Thank you.

You're welcome.

Is this some sort of a joke?

No, sir.

So I ask you to write an essay,

and you observe a girl.

You never told me

what to observe.

Oh, come on, Jay.

Really?

I'm training you

to survive Mavericks,

not some, uh, silly teen crush.

Roque, go to bed.

Good night, Daddy.

I just thought...

What did you think?

What did you think, Jay?

Nothing.

If you didn't think,

you're wasting my time.

Frosty.

Okay? And that's not something

I got a lot of these days.

You know what?

It's not your fault.

You're 15.

You're just a kid.

Jay, um, will you

excuse us for a moment?

For heaven's sake, Frosty,

not everyone sees the world

through your eyes.

Okay? He chose

to examine something

that meant the world to him.

Something personal,

which he opened up

and shared with you,

entrusted to you.

Brenda, I'm not concerned

with his feelings.

I'm concerned

with the objective.

The point of writing an essay

is to put your thoughts

down on paper

and see the gaps and reflect.

And did he accomplish that

or not?

I don't know. I...

My old man, he didn't even...

Shh, shh, shh.

It just takes patience.

You owe yourself that much.

Okay?

Okay.

I don't hear Lake.

Hey.

He just needed to be held,

I think.

Don't we all sometimes?

All right, chief, sit down.

From now on, let's stick

to the subject at hand.

First off, I want you

to rewrite this essay,

but you can observe

an actual break.

As in surf break.

Mr. Lopez.

Here.

- Miss Mirkin.

- Here.

Mr. Moriarty.

Mr. Moriarty.

Mavericks. November

Swell westerly,

approximately 12 feet

at 16-second intervals,

25- to 30-foot faces.

One of Frosty's crew

heading out solo.

Looking like the best way out

is to ride the current

inside the rocks.

Wind remains side-shore,

maybe 10 knots.

Set suddenly shifting

with no warning.

Large and northerly,

at least double the size.

Come on, come on.

Hey, man.

Hey, Brenda.

How's it going?

It's good.

Yeah? I'm curious to hear

how it is from the one

on the other end of the whip.

You know, just

keeping me on my toes.

Not being too hard

on you, is he?

No. No, I feel like it's

the other way around, maybe.

How so?

Sometimes, when you've been

through a lot in life,

you know, sometimes

you're hard on yourself.

That's the way it is with

my mom, at least, you know?

You sure you're only

in high school?

Yeah.

Bye.

See you.

See you guys. Take it easy.

Looks like your girlfriend's

keeping tabs on you.

- Ha, ha.

- Yo, who's that?

Oh, he's cool.

All right, later.

What's this?

You my keeper

all of a sudden? Hey.

You having this

conversation with me

or your conscience, Blond?

I just wanted to tell you,

it's your turn to lock up.

Jay?

Aah! Oh, my God.

Almost two full minutes.

Jay, can I talk to you?

Uh, hold on.

Come in.

Hey.

Hey.

Hey, your uniform's, um...

It's in the dryer.

Oh. Thank you. Thanks.

Okay.

Um, listen, I was wondering

if I could borrow $15.

I got a parking ticket,

and, you know, if you

don't pay them, it's...

Yeah.

I'm gonna pay you back.

I promise.

Thanks.

Hey. You heading out, Blond?

Like you care.

Sonny!

Outside!

Oh-oh-oh.

Boy can get it done.

If that's what you call

snaking someone's wave, man,

Guess we can't all be

as perfect as you, can we, Jay?

Blond, you're better than that.

All right?

Let's go get some.

Whoo! Yeah!

Hey.

You're back early.

What you doing?

You know, it's, uh...

He wanted to surprise you.

Well, he succeeded.

Carry on.

You're the worst!

You're the worst!

Hey, did you see

that big outside set?

It was firing today!

Careful, man. He's wasted.

Uh, yeah, let me get a, um...

A hot dog, extra chili.

Ahem. No, check that.

Make it a jelly donut.

All we got is pizza, bro.

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