Chasing Mavericks Page #4

Hey, little trash,

why are you always smiling

all the time, huh?

Oh, there you go again.

You see, when you smile,

you look like a little wuss.

When you look

like a little wuss,

you don't get no respect.

Sure got it today.

Hey! Hey! Hey, get off!

Come on! Get off me, man!

You throw a punch,

you better pray

I don't make it back up,

you little punk.

Yeah, you think you're better

than the rest of us, don't you?

I see you paddling out there

every morning with Frosty.

Come on, man,

let's get out of here.

Paddle, paddle, paddle,

little grom.

Let's go, bro.

Let's get out of here.

Looks like you

dropped something.

I read your essay.

What do you think?

I think that's what I expected

from you all along.

You done good, chief.

And now the lion sleeps.

The wave's gonna break

behind us

where the reef falls

from about 40 feet

to about 1500 feet.

Here's what you want to avoid:

Firstly, see those rocks

over there?

They call that the Boneyard.

Whatever you do, do not let

the current push you in there.

It'll smash you to pieces.

So where do you set?

What you got to do

is triangulate.

You draw a line

between yourself and that dish

and that mushroom rock

over there.

The biggest treachery of all

is what lies underneath.

Most waves break on reefs

less than 20 feet

beneath the surface.

Depth is doubled out here.

Meaning, when it's firing,

you got twice the water mass,

twice the wave energy,

and twice the likelihood

of drowning.

Don't worry.

I got your back, kid.

What happened?

What do you mean?

I just saw a 15-foot shark.

I'm sure it scared

the piss out of you,

but that wasn't what I asked.

Why'd you panic?

Just fear, I guess.

All right, well,

one thing you got to know,

fear and panic

are two separate emotions.

Fear is healthy,

panic is deadly.

Because when this place

is firing

and I'm talking

about 30-, 40-foot waves,

it's all about fear.

But you panic out there,

like you just did,

you die.

Well,

if you're scared to death,

how do you not panic?

By identifying the fear

and what it is

you're afraid of.

Not just out there,

but in life.

Welcome to your next essay.

All right, guys, listen up.

Uh, homework assignment, okay?

Put your pencils down.

Don't write until I'm done.

Gotta listen first, okay?

Here we go.

Name the four

sophila of arthropods.

Which sophila is thought

to be the eldest?

Which sophila is thought

to be the eldest? Number one.

Number two:
Compare complete

and incomplete metamor...

There he goes again.

Hey.

Hey.

I was hoping I'd see you here.

Um, we're doing a bonfire

down at the cove.

You want to stop by after work?

Oh, thanks, you know,

but I got to...

Where's the action?

I want to party!

You know, come on.

I got a better idea.

Yeah, okay, that's $14.56.

Dude, no. What?

I'll owe you forever, Blond.

- What's up?

- I promise.

Oh, hey.

Dude, you dropped your, uh...

Hey.

You're home.

Yeah, I finished up early,

so I thought I'd get back.

Is Roque in her room?

Yeah,

she's getting ready for bed.

What's in the bag?

Oh.

My old man used to read

to me as a kid,

and I thought,

you know, maybe...

Maybe I would start reading

to Roque.

Okay.

Roque?

Hi, Daddy.

Hey, I take it this isn't

your first time here.

It's my first time

with anyone else.

Look, you see that?

That's the seventh brightest

star in the sky, Rigel.

Right above it, on either side,

that's Betelgeuse

and Bellatrix.

It's the shoulders of Orion.

What?

Ha, ha.

How'd you know that?

I learned it from my dad.

He started teaching me

about the stars

when I was maybe, like, 3 or 4.

There are 88 constellations,

but I never got a chance

to learn them all.

Come on.

Follow me.

Whoa!

Paddle, paddle, paddle!

Come on, Kimmy!

Yeah!

Kimmy, give me your hand.

Get over here.

Kimmy, come on. Come on.

- Ow!

- No!

Frost, I saw you were counting

on your fingers when we were

diving at Mavericks.

The longer you're down

there, the more your mind unspools.

You mark each minute

with a finger.

Run out of fingers

and you know you're in trouble.

Feel the water getting colder?

Yeah.

Because of what lies

beneath us.

It's the Monterey Trench,

Current drops in here,

heads east until it hits

the Southern Wall.

Creating what?

It's a back eddy.

You know,

the day you hit that eddy

is the day you'll be

more than halfway there.

Where'd you learn

all that stuff anyway?

From you.

I mean, from books and maps.

You told me to study

the currents and the tides.

Yeah, I guess I did, didn't I?

Used to come out here

and just paddle out

to the deepest part.

Used to bob up and down

like a cork just...

Just to feel it.

To feel what?

The abyss.

The tide is

really strong today.

That's because of

tropical hurricanes from Japan.

Making their way

across the Pacific.

Really?

Only happens once

every seven to 10 years.

Last El Nio was '83.

Brought waves into Mavericks

the size

of five-story buildings.

Oh, yeah.

El Nio.

Do you think it'll

happen again this year?

I don't know.

But if it does,

you'd better be ready.

Because that wave of ours

ain't gonna be

a secret anymore.

So, girl I want you to know

Nice.

Thank you, ladies.

All right, I gotta

go get some wood.

No.

I got to keep you ladies warm.

Why don't you go help Daddy?

Bye.

Oh, no. You're leaving.

Yeah, swing shift calls.

No. Oh, good to see you.

So, wait,

where did you guys meet?

You're looking at it.

Really?

Yeah. This is where we

went on our first date.

He asked me out to dinner,

and before I know it,

he's, you know, spearing a fish

and cooking it over a campfire

like a caveman,

and I'm just sitting there

in my white taffeta dress

and my pearls,

you know, wondering

where my cutlery is.

Is all of his family here?

No, we're his only family.

Frosty lost both his folks

when he was young.

He doesn't really

talk about it much.

Kind of carries it

on the inside.

Always has.

Somehow,

it's just made him feel

unfit. Hey.

I don't know. It just...

It breaks my heart.

You take care of that boy,

you hear?

Yeah, I will.

Okay.

I mean, we're just friends,

but I'll take care of him.

- Just friends?

- Hey, hey.

Wow. Nice catch!

Anybody want to kiss a fish?

Not me.

Eh? Yeah.

No! No! Jay, no!

No! Do not get that

near me! No!

No!

Hey.

What's up? Hey. How are you?

- Oh...

- Well, well.

Glad you showed up.

We came to see

the Mavericks man.

What are they doing here?

What are you, like,

Neighborhood Watch?

So, what's the

deal, little trash?

You gonna slay

that dragon by yourself

or is your

rent-a-dad gonna help?

"From a distance,

I watched and realized

"that along with rare beauty

comes constant scrutiny.

Like being the lead

in a school play."

That's poetic, man.

It's a shame she laughs at you

behind your back, though.

But, I mean, you already

knew that, right?

It's kind of obvious since

she won't be seen with you.

Paddle, paddle, paddle,

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