Chasing Mavericks Page #5

little grom.

Paddle, paddle, paddle.

I'm not doing it again.

Okay, well, you know the deal.

You want to walk,

that's your choice.

Why are you doing this to me?

Because I want the truth.

I want to know

what you're afraid of.

I don't know.

You don't know?

Or you don't wanna know?

I don't know.

Well, you better ask yourself,

what do you want

to leave behind?

The truth of who you really are

or just some words on a page?

All that stuff that's burning

deep down inside of you,

what is that?

That stuff

you can't even look at

because it scares you so much,

that the same thing

in that letter?

That letter

that you can't open...

Don't.

But you can't even throw away.

Don't do this!

Don't do what?

If you don't even have

the courage

to open that letter,

then how can you

take on that wave?

Stop it! I don't know, okay?

I said I don't know.

Dad, quick, Mommy's sick.

Brenda.

Mommy?

Jay. Call 911.

I'm here, sweetheart.

I'm right here. Hurry.

Mommy. Mommy!

Yeah, yeah, we

have an emergency.

Babe, I'm with you.

I need you

to send an ambulance, please.

Jay, tell them

she's having a stroke.

I think she's having

a stroke. She can't talk.

Just breathe, baby.

I don't know. I don't know.

She fell...

Mommy! Mommy!

She's not moving.

Okay, babe. Baby, I got you.

We're at 311 38th

Street, in Pleasant Point.

Hi.

How could this happen?

Jay, can we talk?

Please?

Are you okay?

No.

I have to go.

Okay.

Go away.

My grandchildren are wondering

where their father is.

No, they're wondering

where their mother is, sir.

Then tell them.

I don't know what to say.

Tell them the truth.

She's at the side of God

in heaven.

Well, I'm not sure

I believe that right now.

Maybe...

Maybe we'll take the kids

for a couple of days.

Yeah.

Those two children

have lost their mother.

Now don't deny them

the comfort of their father.

Now, come inside.

Why did he leave us, Mom?

He didn't leave us.

He left me.

Frosty?

Frost.

Hey, Frosty?

Show Daddy

the soft baby rabbit.

Say, "Hi."

Say, "I love you, Daddy."

Can you show Daddy?

Show Daddy

the soft baby rabbit.

Say, "Hi." Can you say,

"I love you, Daddy."

Frost?

Hi, Daddy. She said, "Da!"

She said "Daddy."

That's good. Should we read

a story to Daddy?

Should we read a story...

Deep breaths.

Steady rhythm.

Drive and glide.

Frosty!

Deep breaths.

Steady rhythm.

Drive and glide.

Frosty!

Frosty!

The current.

He floated with the current.

Frosty, what are you doing?

What are you doing?

You can't just

walk away from everything!

Why not? Huh? Why not?

She's all I had, Jay.

She's all I ever knew.

All I know, Frost,

is what you told me.

If you look hard enough,

there's always a way

through it.

But what if I don't

have the strength, Jay?

Which pillar do I lean on then?

The fifth one.

Which one is that?

It's me.

Come on.

That's enough of this.

Come on. It's time to go.

Hey, Jay.

You're going the wrong way.

I felt the back eddy, Frost.

That means we're more than

halfway across the bay.

Closer to what's in front of us

than what's behind.

Paddle, Frosty.

Good morning.

Did you forget what day it is?

Oh. And this

is all of the money

that I borrowed from you.

Plus some interest.

Mom, where did you get this?

I was made the shift manager

because I'm so punctual.

All right.

Open your present.

Frosty said that

you might be needing that

to follow the swells.

And he said there is

a very big one coming.

It was hard to figure out what

he was talking about,

but they're calling it El Nio,

which means "the boy."

You know that because

you got a C in Spanish. Hey.

You knew about this

the whole time.

Yeah. Frosty's no dummy,

and my handwriting

is not that good.

Happy birthday.

Yes! Ha!

Nice weather we're having,

eh, ladies?

Hey. How's it going, Bob?

How you holding up?

Yeah, yeah. Good.

This is Jay.

Bob Pearson.

Heard a lot about you, kid.

Thank you, sir.

Follow me.

How's it cooking?

Catching any waves?

No, I'll never surf anymore.

I'm making too many boards

for all you guys.

That's the way

I like to keep it.

You want to slay a giant,

you need a sacred spear.

Happy birthday, Jay.

Can I...?

Yeah. She's all yours.

I don't know what to say.

Just stay low, go fast.

Yeah. Yeah.

There. There he is.

Yeah, he can take a beating.

But can he surf?

Like nothing you've ever seen.

You ever seen anyone that can

tread water like that

for 45 minutes

without drowning?

He's got a point.

Good, I'll take that

as two yeses.

Just make sure he doesn't

drop in on me, all right?

Strong El

Nio induced winter storms

are queued up

in the Gulf of Alaska

and progressing eastward

towards California.

The first is producing 55-knot

winds and seas to 40 feet.

Large ocean swells

are expected to arrive

resulting in large

breaking waves

with heights to 35 feet.

Hey. It's pouring out there.

How you been?

Good.

Kim, what's wrong?

We've been friends forever.

You don't have to do this.

Just tell me.

It's just complicated.

Not from where I'm sitting.

That's because you only see

the good in everything.

Most of us spend

all of our time

dwelling on all the what ifs

and just looking for

all the reasons

why things

could never work out.

And what if you're wrong?

Then you show up

to a pizza parlor

late one night, in the rain.

Ever since we were

little kids, Jay,

I've just had this feeling

deep down inside...

...that you're the one,

and I'm gonna spend

the rest of my life with you.

What?

What's wrong?

Be advised,

there is an extremely high

surf advisory in effect.

Buoys reporting

32 feet at 18 seconds.

Hey.

Hey, Frosty, I just heard,

Okay.

Okay, I'll call Kim.

Are you sure

you don't wanna come?

I just want you to come home.

You sure you got everything?

Yeah.

All right, then.

Because of that,

there'll be a lot of cowboys

out there today

trying to prove themselves.

Some of them

are gonna get hurt.

So keep your distance

and keep your focus, all right?

So a swell with this much west

means sets will be shifting.

So you better be prepared.

Pull over. Pull over.

Let's keep you warm, okay?

Okay.

All right.

I'll catch up with you.

Hey.

Hey.

Coast looks pretty scary.

Never seen it this big before.

I've been thinking

about a lot of things lately.

You taught me to surf.

I never thanked you for that.

I'll be watching you, man.

End of an innocence,

my brother.

How you feeling, kid?

You ready?

Suit up.

We'll paddle out together.

What about you, Frost?

I made a promise

a long time ago, chief.

That isn't El Nio, boys.

That's El Jefe right there.

You gotta be kidding me.

It's too big for the kid.

Jay, are you sure about this?

I mean, really, really sure?

Because I'm not.

I am.

I know what you're

gonna say, so don't.

That wasn't the deal.

Remember?

No questions, no arguing.

I just wanted to tell you

something

I should've told you long ago.

Which is, it doesn't matter.

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