Chasing Mavericks Page #6

Whether you decide to

paddle out or take that drop,

I love you no matter what.

Frost.

Come on.

Hey, get us closer! Closer!

Let's do it!

- Whoo!

- Go time!

Ah...

Get out of here!

Sets are shifting!

Swing wide! Outside!

Kid, paddle, paddle, paddle!

Go, go, go!

Get your boats out of here now!

Go, Jay, get out!

Paddle, paddle, paddle!

Somebody's gonna die out there.

He'll be okay,

as long as he can still

climb up the leash.

Come on, Jay.

Come on, Jay.

There he is!

Grab ahold!

No, no, no! Give me my board!

You heard him!

Thanks.

Wait a minute.

What's he doing?

He came to surf Mavericks.

Set it up, man. Set it up.

- Take it.

- I got it.

Thanks.

Hold on, hold on.

- Got it?

- Yeah.

Come on, man,

you don't have to surf it.

Came this far,

you at least need to feel it.

No.

Think I've felt enough

for one day.

Kill it.

Dear Frosty,

Truth is that I am afraid.

I'm afraid I'll never

see my dad again

and that my mom

will never find happiness.

I'm afraid of losing Kim

because she's the love

of my life.

And, of course,

I'm afraid of losing you.

I'm not sure what you think

fathers are supposed to be,

but now I know

what they should be.

Glad to see you made it, kid.

I finally read my dad's letter,

which was like

my last essay to you.

Just a bunch of words

on a page.

This one's all you, charger.

I know this sounds strange,

but I've always felt

like I wouldn't be around

for very long,

which is why

I want to take that drop.

Because once I look down

over the edge

and I catch it,

I'll become a part of it.

And in that moment,

I'll know that I'm alive.

Jay became famous that day,

not for riding giants,

but for the courage of a boy

who dared the impossible.

Over the years, he rose to

the peak of the surfing world,

his prowess matched

only by his joy.

The true prince

amidst a sport of kings.

He married

his childhood sweetheart

and swore himself true.

As for the rest,

all I will say is, the ones

who push the limits discover...

...the limits sometimes

push back.

To Jay!

To Jay!

To Jay!

Yeah!

We all come from the sea,

but we're not all of the sea.

Those of us who are,

we children of the tides,

must return to it

again and again

until the day

we don't come back,

leaving behind only that

which was touched

along the way.

You just got to

appreciate everything.

Um, I think that's one

of the most important things

in life,

is just really appreciating it.

Because, you know,

we only get to do this once.

And it's not for a long time,

so enjoy it.

Yeah.

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