Dirty Old Wedge Page #8

and knowing what's fun about

riding.

And, I think Gene's legacy had

us realize

how close we need to be to each

other.

And, I just remember everybody

showing up

to his funeral and how we felt

about it.

And how we all felt as brothers

again.

Ya know, sharing our grief

and that we need to

have each other's backs

and remember how stoked

Gene was in riding.

When I go down to the Wedge now,

I think about him and I smile.

I don't like weep I just get

stoked

because that's how much fun he

would have.

You're still the one to break

my heart

You're still the one to tear

it apart

You're still the one to call

me names

As if all I ever wanted

All I ever wanted was pain

You're still the one to break

my heart

You're still the one to tear

it apart

You're still the one to call

me names

As if all I ever wanted

All I ever wanted was pain

- [Voiceover] His memorial

was a great thing,

a touching thing.

It brought everyone together,

young guys, old guys.

It cemented the group.

Then we got Hurricane Marie.

The greatest hurricane

swell I've ever witnessed.

I think at times, could these

waves

have been a gift from Gene?

(upbeat, electronic music)

- There hasn't been the

mystical 20 foot hurricane swell

since the 90's, right?

And you see in a few weeks

out, this thing could happen.

- It gets all the hype.

Like, oh, alright sure,

it's gonna be big, whatever.

It's gonna be big hurricane,

the angles right, everything.

I'll believe it when I see it.

Then a week rolls in and the

forecast kind of improves.

Like, oh, okay, this thing might

shapen up

still kind of hold my excitement

until,

and then like two days before is

like,

oh, okay, something's happened

and we're getting waves.

It's gonna line up,

it's gonna be, you know,

hopefully ideal.

- Didn't sleep well the night

before.

I woke up, looked at

the cam, it was pumping.

Went down and saw the crowd.

It was going down, a lot was

going on.

- You start to get the jitters

and like,

me and my other young friends

who ride it

were just so amped to get this

opportunity

and we knew this was gonna be

the time.

Like, this swells like

our chance to really show

like the young crew is

here, we're here to stay

and we ride well.

(fast-paced, rock music)

Contraption every night

Paint out the lights

It stops all the feel ups

That go under the tables

Is that what they say

Is that what they say

Is that what they say

And I am destination

The jewel of a song

A well cut appetite

A spread that has been wasted

Is that what they say

Is that what they say

Is that what they say

(water rushing)

(waves crashing)

- Hurricane Marie, I mean,

as everyone knows and says

was the swell, right?

But what really pushed

it over the top for me,

what made the swell so

special and something

that I will personally always

remember

isn't necessarily always

gonna be the waves

but it's what the day really

represented

and just how symbolic it was

for almost like the changing of

the guard.

Seeing all these guys like

Teddy, Charlie, James,

all these young kids step

up and ride just amazing.

It was a huge deal and

seeing all the support

from the old guys who

could've gone in anyway

if they wanted to, they could

burn us

in every if they want and we

would've been fine with that

but they're giving us waves, ya

know,

giving us the chance to prove

ourselves.

And, I think they're happy

to see what they saw.

Run river run

Carry me to the ocean

- I think as we get older,

you lose your selfishness over

the place.

You realize that it's

what it is, it's a wave,

and it's not there just for us.

It's there for the guys when we

had it,

we'd go, oh my God, yeah,

we're the best generation ever,

we had more better wave riders,

much crap.

We rode it and everybody loved

it,

that's all there is to it.

Everybody was together

because we loved that wave

and we tried to get that stoke

go to the next generation down.

Even the younger kids, I

mean, they've got at that age

what we had at their age.

You can see it and it

just makes me feel good

to see kids really love that

place.

I just don't know

- The Wedge means everything to

me.

For me, I think that my

favorite thing that can happen

down there is you'll

take off on a nice peak,

catch it all the way in,

they'll be on the inside

and you see your buddy

take off on the very next one,

you through your hands up, you

know,

that's when you get stoked.

That's the good stuff.

That's what Wedge means to me.

- I think the bottom

line is you're doing it

because of fun.

Life should be fun.

And I said for us, this is the

best.

- Wedge is like made my life

and it's also ruined my life

in many ways.

My neck hurts every single

morning when I wake up.

My hips busted pretty much.

Sometimes I just wake up and my

hip hurts.

But literally I wouldn't change

anything

that's ever happened to me at

Wedge

because the friends I've

met, the waves I've gotten

and just the overall good

times I've had out there

has made every sacrifice

I've ever had to make

completely worth it for

that wave and that vibe

and everything that you get down

there.

I wouldn't change it for the

world

and I can't wait to show

my son the same exact thing

I've done down there

and I hope he follows in

those footsteps, for sure.

- It's one of those things

where now where I look at

the photos of it and I see all

the posts

and I'm just like so

stoked for the new crew

that's riding it, that's like

enjoying it

and it's still the same old

dirty old Wedge, you know,

it's still the same.

Where I go

I don't know

Where I go

- [Voiceover] My last wave

was in the fall of 2008

and it's still on my mind.

I still think about it.

I dream about it.

I have nightmares about it.

I was a wave rider, a knee

boarder and Wedge was my spot.

So I run river run

Carry me to the ocean

As long as you're in motion

I will go

See that California sun

I know I'm getting closer

I got no destination

But I just got to go

Run river run

Let that city fade behind me

They're never gonna find me

where I go

See that sun sinking low

Let it pull me to the ocean

I don't know where I'm going

But I just got to go

Mmm

Mmm

Mmm

Mmm

- Welcome to Coastal Focus.

Southern California's long

been know for its surfing

and one of the most unique

and wild surf spots around

is right here in Newport Beach.

I'm Sherry Lynn Deganheart,

stay with us as we take

a look at the Wedge.

- [Voiceover] Incredible,

red flag, blackball and Ivan

all tanning away here at the

Wedge.

JT, checking his unit and

he is glad it's still there.

- [Voiceover] For now dealing,

one of the top body surfers of

all time,

Mr. Terry Wade, gives the thumbs

up sign,

unfortunately he doesn't

realize that the surf

is not too happening as we

speak.

- [Voiceover] Jeff, I got a view

here

that I just love to view

(laughs).

These young ladies could need

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