The Fanatic Search 2 - A Girl Thing Page #2

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a line pretty obvious, with a section that is nearly a roof.

It's a huge overhang which eases up very slowly... and you begin on these big balls,

you climb between them, you jam your toes, your heels...

It fit me well, there were a lot of knee bars, it's a climb of endurance even though it's very physical,

it suited me well even if there were several spots that I could see myself falling.

So there it is; a combination of being in good shape, a bit of luck and to find a nice line.

My father helps me a lot, seeing that he's followed me since I was very young,

that he observes and accompanies me, he sets my limits as well,

If he knows that I set for myself certain goals, he'll do everything to help, he knows what I need.

I feel that I don't climb at all in the same way when I'm with him.

I'm used to passing a lot of time with him, and when he belays me I can really focus on what I'm doing.

I don't ask myself "is my belayer sick of holding the rope for me, is he really focused on what I'm trying to do?..."

It relieves me of a lot of distractions.

I didn't feel too bad and I told myself "okay, I'll go take a turn in the 8c", but without any thought at all of doing it on sight.

And so you begin to climb and you realize that it's going well, that it fits you, that it's not to complicated to read,

well, I was able to work it out pretty easily... You start to really put up a good fight and it works,

and all of a sudden you tell yourself "okay, I have to tempt my luck, I have to go right to the end" ...And there it is,

like that, just under the anchor... I was completely wasted and I said to myself "I can do this just once in my life",

It was a beautiful experience and when you clip the belay its a huge relief,

because you tell yourself "you did it, you found your route, you jumped on the occasion"...

It was really an opportunity not to miss, a beautiful opportunity.

F***, I can't go on!

I didn't really realize, in fact, it's not to do an 8c on sight, it's not really... that doesn't bring me that much,

it's more to have climbed a super line...

Well, yeah, to climb for example an 8a+ or an 8c on sight, there's not much of difference for me...

Well, afterward I can say this but on the spot I was... uh... I told myself "Wow, now what have I just done?"

So with hindsight, I tell myself "good is good"

...uh ...it was really a beautiful climb and if it had been an 8a+ I would have been just as happy.

When I clipped the belay I said to myself: "Yup, a send, I did it on sight",

after I lowered off my father said "f***ing bravo", he high five me and I said "yeah, thanks", and then "oh yeah, really, not bad!"

And then you look back at the route, it's impressive, it's daunting,

it's ...yeah, nice job, I'm happy!

THE CAREFREENESS

I love it here, the landscape and everything, it's beautiful!

I like France, the french, the people... yeah it's true, it's cool!

Yep, half of it is motivation.

Usually I'm not training, no diet, on the contrary... I don't know, I'm just living!

I love life too much! I like good wine, eat a good meal, do what I want to do.

I like to eat good stuff, to cook... Life's little pleasures, I like it! After climbing, you finish your day, you do something else,

you start cooking, nice meals, you take your time, it helps your mind to escape, it's just awesome!

Yep, I like that too!

So Nina, today, your first big attempt, how do you feel?

Great, I'm really motivated... it's a bit warm out, but I'll have to deal with it anyways, there's no other choice... No it's cool, motivated!!!

The first pitch is at least 40 meters, 8a+...

Noooooooo!!!!! I'm no!!! F***, Nooooo!!!!! I've got no strength!!!

F*** it!

Melissa:
Don't worry, you have all the time you need

It's so hot!

Year, and it's my last day here. I had to do it today! Ah, I was so stressed!

Second Try - 1 hour later...

I almost fell right at the top! I'm completely knackered and there's still 4 pitches to go! Yeah, it's cool!

The second one is all small, a very physical 8a with little columns, bam bam bam!

It's pretty strenuous, very overhanging... it demands a lot!

I just forced my way through it! It's the pressure to link it up. I know why I suck at competions, I just can't deal with the pressure.

Two, that's done! Still three to go...

I don't feel good now, I don't feel good!!!

Melissa supported me, we took everything, even playing cards; we prepared food, we were taking big rests after hard pitches.

Here we're not as comfortable!

What are you doing there!?

Crosswords, to keep busy, waiting for madam to recuperate.

She's teaching me!

We're not yet in those pitches there... In the climbing spirit...

Actually, when I was working on it, I thought I would never be able to lead this thing, it's too hard and it's too abrasive on the fingers!

My God, this battle! I didn't want to fall!

Yep, the summit is there!

Off belay! Oh my God, that's so cool!!

There it is, number four! That's done, So cool!!

Off belay!

Great, this pitch was really just pure pleasure, no more stress, nothing...

and I don't even feel tired, it's great...

When you're trying a long route, you think: "Do it!", I was extremely motivated, and you don't get tired 'cause you're always thinking:

"It isn't finished yet, the end is on top".

It's something I really wanted to do, and I only had this one day to do it, and I had to do it! It was important to me!

I was really motivated to have a big project, a long route, 'cause everything is necessary, not just strength in your arms;

really everything, you have to manage the exposure, the rope handling... it's hard but I

Well, that's done!

You get here, at the top, with the sun, so, so cool!!

Thanks for this beautiful route!

Melissa, I get on so well with her, I really like her and...

F***! I wanna kill you!! This is so heavy!

In my opinion, the partner is half of the climbing experience, she got sick of it sometimes, it was getting very annoying for her,

but she wanted me to succeed, and it's cool to feel that.

Pfff, that was so hard, I can't do it anymore!

I've gotta go now, otherwise she's gonna kill me! Come on pal, I pulled all that I could...

No, I had the feeling you weren't pulling me at all! Look at this!

...Well done!

Still alive!

My God, I felt like a whale! I weighed at least 50 kilos more than my normal weight!

I couldn't do it, I was thinking: "Come on, help me! I can't pull on these f***ing crimps!"

God, it was awful... f***!!

We did a good job, that's cool!

You've already done a lot of long routes, no?

Yep , I've done quite a few, but actually, I've never really led long climbs.

I often went on them, fell, and never took the time afterwords to come back and work on them...

But yeah, I have many to do, a lot and a lot and a lot!!

THE LOVE:

It is a real luck to discover climbing, it is so beautiful, it brought me everything, all the most beautiful things I have in my life,

except my family, climbing brought me everything.

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