The Fanatic Search 2 - A Girl Thing Page #3

Year:
2011
90 min
27 Views


To me, Oliana is the best crag in Catalunya today; it's a super, fantastic cliff.

All the routes I was able to lead at this cliff, from 8a to 8b+,

are without any doubt, five stars!

This year, my goal is to try a harder grade than where I am now; climb 8c, and I'm super motivated with this project!

I fell twice at the top of the route, I wasn't lucky...

but it isn't frustrating either because each time there's so much to climb, that it's a pleasure anyway.

I started climbing in the Canaries Islands, and where there are lots of passionate climbers; maybe more climbers than there is rock!

But when I started to leave the island and discovered Catalunya, with all it's potential, I told myself that I wanted to live there.

Why deprive myself and live far away from the best crags?

Being with someone like Chris, who's a real fanatic and above all, who doesn't spread out his projects, concentrating on one climb at a time,

without worrying about the investment needed, helped me to tell myself "Come on! I can be patient too and do something special"

It's awesome to live with someone like him. He shares with me his climbing, the moves on his projects,

and I do too, we never get tired of it! Well, actually, sometimes yes, like "Oh please, shut up!!"

I think I must be... "I know him" for other people. And Odaja is the same, she is like ... Every second talking about move on her project.

You are just like "OK, do your route, stop talking about".

It's really awesome to be able to climb with someone like him, it's a privilege, a luxury.

And by just watching him climbing, I learn things, he infuses me with things that I've never seen before, like facility and ease...

He also influenced me a lot to try to exceed my level,

and above all, his passion for climbing, that he transmits to you, Chris or people like Dani (Andrada).

She is really talented climber, you know climbing a lot of things,

but it's hard to have that discipline and like determination.

I wanna do this route. I have to try so many times, you know.

Usually, I don't really work on climbs, but with this one, I told myself I would give it some time.

No more leading climbs I know I can do anymore, but to do something which will completely occupy me, will be more important.

And that's the case for "FishEye". If I manage to lead it, no matter the time I will have used trying, it will be very rewarding.

It's cool, that will make our first 8c, that will be one of our routes.

It's cool because she is really psyched on this route. First time she is really focused like...

She is not getting frustrated. She just really loves the route, that's important for her. I think she's gonna do it.

This tee-shirt is beautiful on you!

Before like she, you know, all the moves, you know there is a lot of sections with so many hard moves on the route

so you can fall in so many places. No, she just climbing. It all really easily so.

It's cool, you could see how she really improved over the last two month, you know.

She really just loves to climb on that route, such a perfect route. Every time it's like a pleasure to go and try the route.

It's hard to try a route for a month, or two month, trying a route like a big project.

It's easier to go and try a lot of routes and do maybe three tries and you have this feeling... satisfaction.

But it is really the satisfying thing to really see how far you could climb, how hard you could climb...

Yeah, it's amazing route!

It's cool she had some different blocks in the route, just following this first section in the blue rock.

She gets this on her clings. She fell their like five times or something... and then

she made it through, she stuck it twice and fell after, and now she did it ...two times to the last move.

Cool like every time she is progressing.

I'm wasted!

She looks good there!

It's a crazy route because at the very top it is a really tricky and balancy move on slopie small pocket.

After so much time climbing, it is like 50 meters... you get it to the top

You are concentrated and...

Crazy! Your first 8c!

My heart!

She had to work so hard to do it. It's cool to see that she finally made her goal.

She climbed really good, like... Perfect!

She killed it too... Not only like "do it", but "do it in a nice way", like really f***ing very good.

She climbed fast too...

Not easy at all for her to see anything... like super solid!

What stress! Every time I placed my feet in holds I didn't usually use!

Awesome! You did it! F***! 8c!

Yeah! And this one in particular, no?

I feel great, seriously, as if I was lighter! I took off at least 50 kilos from my shoulders!

Today, when I got to the last hard move 50 meters off the ground, I thought I really didn't want to fall and do it all over again,

and it worked, and that's it, it's done!

I did 8c! Now I can have a baby, no?

Oups, that's recorded... yesterday, Chris told me: "First you do 8c, then we'll see!"

Ok! Get ready for tonight!!

THE SELF-SACRIFICE

Isn't mom's milk good with a bit of lactic acid?

Being a mother doesn't stop you from being passionate about climbing, look at Mariona, Berta...

It's only a question of choices, like everything else in life sometimes you'd like to do everything, sometimes you concentrate just one thing

life is long, and you have plenty of time to climb, be with your children, your friends, write, do what pleases you.

But you must be aware at the moment that you make these choices, to go to what pleases you most,

and not merely return to the same activities because of their familiarity.

If there's a time when you reduce your climbing to be with your kids, that's also extremely beautiful!

I think that not long after giving birth, you have some sort of special energy,

you can re-appropriate your body and climb very well, you get a hormonal release, and more!

Often I find that because climbing is an activity that is so absorbing, many other things pass right by me..

your nose glued to the rock all day long, your trips where the only objective is to climb, your circle of friends made up only of climbers.

I love climbing, and I would really like to pass the rest of my life climbing, all the years I can,

but it's also important to disconnect for sometime, it's also enriching to change,

not to stay always focused on the same thing, and that is true of having a kid, writing a book, taking a trip to Africa...

If something interests you, it's okay to reduce your climbing a little,

otherwise you retreat into life, just for climbing. Climbing is just one thing, right?

It's a story of choices... in life you take different paths, you open some doors and close others...

Having a child is like falling in love, is it bad not to fall in love?

No, you can live very happily without knowing this feeling even if I find beautiful to live it, to know love;

Being a mother is the same thing, is it bad not to become a mother?

No, and if you don't become one, you can be extremely happy with what you already have.

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Laurent Triay

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Submitted on August 05, 2018

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