The Fanatic Search 2 - A Girl Thing Page #4

Year:
2011
90 min
27 Views


I think that it's an authentic and primary opportunity which is given to us by nature,

you connect all at once with your roots, with the earth, with nature... It's really beautiful,

I think it's the most beautiful thing given to me to experience.

I think that the bottom of the cliff is a great place for children, I read a lot of articles saying it is too dangerous, not adapted...

But I think that in this society, we try to overprotect our kids, forgetting that what is best for them is to be with their parents

and if they are always at the cliff, what a beautiful place to be with them!

I think it's far more dangerous to take them to daycare in your car.

When you're pregnant, your whole body changes, as does your climbing! But I climbed up to the 8th month,

and I also gained a lot of weight! I looked like a bomb and took on 20kg!

I was climbing pretty badly, but just being outside,

walking, doing a few easy climbs, helped me to feel good.

When you turn the soil, and when you let it sit for a while to then plant it... I think it's just like a woman's body.

When you're pregnant, your body rests, everything regenerates, tendons, muscles.

Then, with hormonal change, the joy of being with your child,

the desire to do what you couldn't do for months, everything is much better!

Over there my baby's crying!

When I climb, it's the only time that she stays calm, it's great!

That's it, that's what fear makes you do!

Argh! I'm so angry!

Geila, get out of there!

What am I doing? I'm going to climb to the top!

THE FRIENDSHIP:

Like many years ago, in one magazine I saw photo of ?Carina? on this route. And then "ok", I had it somewhere in myself,

and then a month ago, I get e-mail from Mariona.

"I saw the photo of one really good, would you like to try it with me?" And so the story start.

What makes the route even bigger is that it is just one route in the whole this part of the world.

That you have to walk, I don't know, Crau said 45 minutes, but we were walking 1 hour, 1hour 15, tired. This is instead of warming up.

And then you have to lower down, it's complicated.

I think the motivation is such a big thing... It's like a puzzle, everything have to come together

So for me personally for one route it's the line that you see, nice place, good atmosphere, the team you are working the route on.

Wow! Crazy! F***!

I can't wait to see the column!!

Are you getting emotional Martina?

Yeah, it's awesome isn't it?

It doesn't seem impossible, but to me, it's hard mentally! It's mostly mental isn't it?

Ok, I fly

God! What agony!

We have to talk about some moves.

So you have this good one.

Yeah.

This one, pocket.

But the problem that the feet are really...

Last day in Verdon, last chance for Martina to send the route...

She doesn't really like what you're eating.

For the route like this you need somebody who is really motivated...

Somebody who wants to do it also... Gives you energy.

Here, you can not really warm up.

Just... going down and trying some moves, and then you go.

Even if we maybe are not strong enough, we can still do it with the motivation.

What is important when you... I was there totally pumped at the beginning.

Then you should not think that I have to more cracks at the end you can finish there. I was just thinking "ok",

this meter more and this meter more, and there is another rest...

I think in this route you should use your force a lot.

Hold body pressure especially in the part when you have this too long.

You should not forget about your feet because you divide the tension.

So it's a... challenge for the endurance, for the patience in your mind.

Olala, so happy!

She's a machine, no? Inhuman!

THE WISDOM:

We split our lives between France and the States.

Didier and I bought a house 15 years ago,

and now we only come here for our vacations.

We're in the States for the kids' school and as soon as they're finished, sometimes a few days earlier,

we come here to have a good time climbing and take our holidays quietly.

For me, the definition of someone who is a "fanatic" is someone who is hooked, who isn't able to get rid of something they love a lot.

Unfortunately, that could be something unhealthy like alcohol or drugs, or it could be a sport like climbing.

I think there are a lot who are fanatics, you could say "addicts", very addicted...

Sometimes you might say "let's go do something else, let's go biking or let's go to the sea..."

Yeah, it bores us to do that! In fact, when you're a climbing fanatic, you only want to climb!

It's true that when I do too much, I feel unbalanced, that's why it's good for me to do it now with the kids; it brings back the balance.

Sometimes we climb a lot, sometimes a bit...

This allows me to continue to climb in my fanatic mode, but also having a new life of being a mother, with the family, the children...

it's very nice!

Passion fruits, pineapple, mango, mint, lemon, cassis, strawberry, cherry...

Strawberry?

Uh, no, what's the second thing that you said?

Uh, I said a lot!

Lemonade with lemon? Are you sure?

Lemon? Well, I have sour lemon, normal lemon or green lemon... (Robyn) Normal! (Shawn) Sour!

Me, I know that for example, if I were to go back to competition, I would want to be number one, my family would suffer.

I wouldn't be able to take care of my family as well as I can now.

Now we do everything together and it's an ensemble of things, there's Shawn who climbs,

Brooke who climbs, me and all the others who climb with us. And it doesn't matter if we haven't climb enough when the day is over.

But when you're a world class professional climber and you want to be the best, it's something else.

Then it's training in the morning, everything well scheduled, so you leave the rest on the side.

When I was at the top I worked out a lot!

What's most important thing is spend time with your children and not be too selfish with climbing.

'Cause climbing if part of that being fanatic, it is also can be selfish. And it's all about me, and I need to train...

Sometimes it's not such a good mix.

I am not one that wanna do 8c or 8c+ when I am 50 or 60 years.

I just wanna always be strong. I don't like to be weak.

So I always train just enough to able to do 8a or 8b fast and feel like I'm climbing well.

If my body doesn't respond, I'm not happy. That's priority, is that I always train just enough to able to hold on to routes that are 5.13.

The one thing that I have received and that I have earned from climbing is believing in myself, in others, making friendships

and the lifestyle that we live around climbing is magical.

It's gotta be 105 degrees there! When I had my head upside down at the rest in the hole I could really feel it!

So I have a climbing school called ABC for kids and it's a program that teaches very young children how to rock climb

Mean take children as young as 3 years old, so ABC for kids is agility, balance and coordination

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Laurent Triay

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Submitted on August 05, 2018

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